"Sorry for the Disturbation"

Or so the sign read at my hotel this evening. It could have been referring to the malfunctioning elevator or the lack of hot water this morning. According to the front desk receptionist, there was no hot water in the entire city of Espoo (Espoo, essentially an outgrowth of Helsinki, is the second largest city in Finland). Perhaps unfairly, the lack of hot water made me think about this country's proximity to Russia. While in Ekaterinburg on a choir tour in high school, that Siberian city also decided to shut off its hot water for several days. Nevertheless, the hot water is now back and we're in business for a hot shower tomorrow morning.

The Elexia Gym: Although my hotel does not have a gym, guests are encouraged to patronize the exercise facility located in the adjacent mall. Yesterday morning, many hours before sunrise, I committed the reception clerk's directions to memory and set out for the gym. Getting there required me to snake my way along the outdoor paths that run between the mall buildings, find the side door of a grocery store, punch 3500 on a security number pad (feel free to use the secret code if you come to Espoo), climb three flights of spiral stairs, and walk down a long, dark hallway. At the end of the hallway I was greeted by a huge new gym with all of the latest in exercise equipment, as well as tanning beds and saunas. For ten euro, it was all mine. Really all mine as no one else had yet arrived to work out. The experience was very enjoyable and I plan to return tomorrow morning and perhaps add some sauna time.

Fearing that I'm emphasizing negative elements of my stay here (because they're inherently funnier), I want to leave you with a few of the extremely positive features so far:

- The Finns have a reputation for being dour and stone-faced. With a couple of notable exceptions, I have found the exact opposite to be true: almost everyone I've dealt with has been extremely friendly, cheerful and helpful. Perhaps it's holiday cheer, but Helsinkians appear to be having a great time.

- It's a bit less profound but I must also report that the taxi system is amazing. Upon request, any restaurant, hotel or office building will call a taxi service and immediately provide you with an order number. Within minutes (sometimes less) a taxi will pull up at your location. The driver will get out of the car and shout the order number in Finnish and English. If you haven't yet made it outside, the driver will wait -- even if other people are there and want to get in his cab! Every driver I've had has spoken English quite well. Every cab is equipped with a credit card machine that prints out lovely little receipts that will make expense account reimbursement quite easy.

- From my hotel's breakfast buffet to tonight's Finnish tapas dinner, I've found the food to be quite good. Even the daily hot lunch at the corporate cafeteria is homey and satisfying. The ingredients are fresh and well-prepared. Tonight I had reindeer (in the form of ham) for the first time. It will not count as the official tasting for the reindeer v. bear contest, but it was quite good.